FUSIBLE INTERLINING APPLICATIONS AND GENERAL SUGGESTION
During the application, the coat on the fusible interlining is liquidized by using heat, and the transfer of this liquid onto the cloth at necessary amount is established by the pressure. At the end of this process, by the cooling and the solidification of the coat, perfect fusing of the cloth and the fusible interlining is established.
In the application of fusible interlining adhesion, the safest way is to use a press machine. The quality and the well-kept state of the press is one of the most important factors that directly affect the final quality of the shirt. Although the type of fusible interlining may differ with regard to the cloth quality to be applied, there are some general criteria about the usage of the presses. Press temperature should be around:
- 160 degrees Celsius for fusible interlining products that are 100gr/m2 or below,
- 170 degrees Celsius for fusible interlining products that are between 100gr/m2 and 130gr/m2
- 175 degrees Celsius for fusible interlining products that are 130gr/m2 or above.
To control the suggested temperature, temperature measuring papers should be used; those heat sensitive papers should be placed between the cloth and the fusible interlining while they are going into the press. Temperature is measured by the darkening rate of the heat indicators on the paper. If this process is applied to the right and left wings of the press at the same time, it allows observing whether heat differences occur between wings, or not.
- To keep the quality at standards, the maintenance of the press should be made regularly and on time.
- It should be used in an environment which is isolated from the flow of yarn and fibre, and humidity.
- It should have the structure and properties that are matching with the purpose.
- The heat and pressure values should be homogenous on the surface of the press blanket.
- The similarity of the parameter indicators ( pressure and heat ) and actual indicators should be checked frequently, in case of mismatching occasions, the maintenance should be informed for the necessary fixing.
- The parameter indicators should be sensitive enough. Some analogue indicators might have temperature reading tolerances between +-15 C. In such cases; the thermometer might close the circuit at 135 degrees Celsius, whereas it ought to do so at 150 degrees Celsius, and may mislead the operator.
- There should not be any corrosion allowed on the press cylinders, and the cylindrical pressure should be equally balanced on left, right and middle parts.
- The cylinders should be checked frequently, the silicone covered cylinders must be changed regularly and the hardness of the silicone should be controlled continuously.
- The operators should be experienced.
- For the presses operating with single personnel; as the blankets may erode unequally, the personnel should work in rotation.
- Products that come out of the press should not be handled before they are cooled, and in case of necessity for handling hot, appropriate care should be given. Otherwise, finger marks and loosen strength occurs at the points of contact.
- There should not be any deep scratches or patches on the blanket surface. If there are patches, care must be given to make the fusing of cloth and fusible interlining apart from this patchy area.
- Internal temperature of the press must frequently be controlled through electronic thermometer or temperature measuring papers.
- In the mornings, ( especially in winter ) when the presses are first started, overall temperature in the press may remain below the optimum level even though thermometer, being fed by the resistance, indicates the right temperature. In such case, differences may occur between applications in the early mornings and afterwards. This is an important aspect that must be paid attention in terms of the quality of the product. In order to avoid this problem, no fusing should be done, for at least 30 minutes after the press is started.
- Compress the cloth and the fusible interlining, cut in 5 cm stripes, simultaneously, to be fused at the left, right and middle parts of the press and check if any differences occur in their dismantlement strengths. The dismantlement strength should be minimum 1.2 Kg.
- Compress the shirt collar, in parallel to blanket’s flowing direction. Check the dismantlement strength. If there is strength difference between the sides, compress once more while turning the left and right sides upside down. In this case, if the strength difference disappears, it means that the problem is in press cylinders, have it checked immediately.
- You could also do this control, when the press is cold, by using white A4 size standard papers and an unused carbon paper. Place the unused A4 size carbon paper between 2 white A4 size papers. Compress the papers from the left, right and middle at the same time. Observe the darkening ratio of the white papers by the carbon paper and see whether its marks are different at the left, right and middle parts, or not.
CLOTHS AND THEIR EFFECT ON THE FUSING APPLICATIONS
In textile production, the usage of various chemical ingredients and their application methods, at the stages of the cloth production, results in big functional differences between cloth qualities. Because of this reason, there are even significant differences between cloth qualities which have the same appearance. For example, the silicone based chemical coats, used for softening of the cloth, during finishing process, affects its liquid transfer ability negatively. It could be understood whether a cloth has a silicone finish, or not, by observing the behaviour of the water that was dripped onto it. If the cloth slides the water rather than absorbing it, the liquid transfer is hard for this quality. As the application of the fusible interlining means to liquidize the coat by using heat, and transfer it to the cloth by using pressure; a cloth quality which has the resistance to absorb water will naturally behave in the same way when absorbing the liquidized coat of fusible interlining. As it could be grabbed from the above example, without being mistaken by the cloth similarities; necessary adjustments should be made on the press indicators until the reliable fusing achieved.
CLOTHS AND THEIR EFFECT ON THE FUSING APPLICATIONS
All SNT products passed through sanfor machines. For this reason, washing shrinkage after 10 washes is 1.5 % of meter. Heat shrinkage after pressing is 0.6%. Due to the different fabric faces, it is recommended that fabrics would be tested before the mass use. Washing shrinkage must be max. 2%. If heat shrinkage is more than 0.6% , cloth should be press alone. In this way, heat shrinkage could be avoided and wetness of cloths is dehumidified. The top fuse should be applied after this process.